Sunday, July 19, 2009

Dog Names

What is the first thing every puppy dog needs as soon as he is born? A unique puppy dog name!! Or, as we like to call them, a baby dog name! We understand how difficult it is to come up with that one great, unforgettable puppy name, like Scooby Doo. So we created this site to give you guidance in naming the second most important member of any family (next to your baby of course). We have scoured the Internet, dog books, doggie magazines, puppy publications and more to come up with the best list of female, girl, and boy dog names in the universe! We've found popular dog names, names of famous dogs and funny, unique doggy names. We do not have thousands of names. We have collected only the best cute names for dogs and the most unique. We offer you only the best for your baby dog!

Choose your puppy name wisely. The name fang, killer or wolf can be scary to people that are already leary of dogs. Your pet dog will quickly become a major part of your family so select a name you won't mind shouting over and over again. Dogs give you the ultimate opportunity to choose fun names that you could never give your kids, so get wild and pick something outrageous! Your dog will thank you.

Today's Top Suggested Dog Names

1. Major
2. Czar
3. Patriot
4. Haskle Rascal
5. King Edward
6. Blinker
7. Flea Town
8. Darn
9. Coaster
10. Cavity
11. Toothpick
12. Ting Ting
13. Buddy Holly
14. Werewolf
15. Furbulous
16. Kermit
17. Jingle Bells
18. Cabbie
19. Niffer
20. Kootie Bear
21. Porcupine
22. Willie Wonka
23. T-Rex
24. Sweetness
25. Rose Bud
26. Gecko
27. Liberty
28. Muttens
29. Beatle Boy
30. Bongo
31. Radio
32. Pants
33. Marlboro
34. Trot Along
35. Stamp
36. Diz Dog
37. Pussycat
38. Spock
39. Twister
40. Hurl

Thursday, June 25, 2009


Dogs are susceptible to various diseases, ailments, and poisons, some of which can affect humans. To defend against many common diseases, dogs are often vaccinated.

First generation hybrids such as this terrier mix often are healthier than either parent due to the genetic phenomenon of heterosis or "hybrid vigor".

Some breeds of dogs are prone to certain genetic ailments such as elbow or hip dysplasia, blindness, deafness, pulmonic stenosis, cleft palate, and trick knees. Two serious medical conditions particularly affecting dogs are pyometra, affecting unspayed females of all types and ages, and bloat, which affects the larger breeds or deep-chested dogs. Both of these are acute conditions, and can kill rapidly. Dogs are also susceptible to parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mites, as well as hookworms, tapeworms, roundworms, and heartworms.

Dogs are also vulnerable to some of the same health conditions as humans, including diabetes, dental and heart disease, epilepsy, cancer, hypothyroidism, and arthritis

Dog Breeds

A' Dog Breeds

Browse different dog breeds to find the perfect puppy breed for YOU. Read more about how to find responsible dog breeders and how they will be willing to discuss temperament and health problems of their breed for all of their puppies.

Remember that each dog breed is different. Some dog breeds require lots of time that you will have to dedicate to groom and to exercise. Some dog breeds require little or no exercise but other dog breeds may require a walk three times every day. Please make sure you are making the right decision when you choose which dog breed is right for you. Browse our dog breeds pages below for each dog breed. We have over 155+ personal dog breeds pages for your viewing. Your online dog breeds guide. Consult our dog breeds information guide below.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Dogs must be taught to not bite

Q: What can I do to make my dog stop biting the heck out of me?

A: This is a common question of many dog owners.

All dog biting springs from the same source rooted deep in canine behavior. To answer the question properly, I divide the people asking into three categories according to the age of their dogs. Methods of correcting this problem differ if the dog is a young puppy, around a year old adult (teenager), or a two-to-four year old adult. Beyond the age of four years old, most dogs who have viciously bitten someone have been euthanized or otherwise disposed of.

Biting is very basic canine dominance behavior used from the time a puppy is able to move around in its litter. Biting among wild and domestic canines is used as communication to establish standing within the pack. This pack may be an extended family of wild canines, a litter of puppies with its mother, or your pet dog intermingling with your family. Dogs live so well with humans because they regard all the members of your family as fellow pack members.

The puppy biting dog

If the biting dog is a puppy under six months old, the biting is very correctable. Pups this young rarely bite hard enough to break skin, and many people start out thinking their new pup is simply playing. Your young pup may or may not have risen to the status of pack leader within its litter of puppies. Moving into your house, the pup is introduced into a new pack and is unsure of his ranking within the group. No matter the reason for biting, young pups should never be allowed to playfully use their teeth on human skin.

There are hundreds of tapes and books available on how to train your dog.

While tapes and books are a start, there is no substitute for face to face sessions with a qualified obedience instructor. Puppy kindergarten and basic dog obedience are good classes to take. Professional trainers can not only answer the question of why the pup is biting but can show you how to use various exercises to communicate to the new pup that the people rank above it in the pack. Most of these exercises mimic the way your pup was disciplined by his mother and other litter members. Performing these exercises tells your pup that you are the leader in a manner well understood by dogs. A good trainer will also go over small changes you should make in your everyday life. These changes may mean little to you, but to a dog they govern every aspect of life. Establishing a correct relationship between a pup and its human family will lead to years of enjoyment of each other’s companionship.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Why Dog Health and Grooming Go Hand in Hand

Dog health and grooming are closely related because this is a perfect opportunity to investigate past the big eyes and the fluffy body. When you groom your dog you get to see down to the skin.

While grooming your dog you are engaged in a hands on everything project. Even some areas you would just as soon not have your hands on. During this time you can check for lumps, warts, and any other irregularities on their bodies.

While clipping your dogs toe nails you are seeing the bottoms of his feet and would notice any broken toe nails. You might also notice any problems on the pads of his feet.

While cleaning his ears you should notice any unusual smell or discharge indicating something your veterinarian should check.

While clipping the body you are shortening his hair, making it easier to see his skin by simply stroking his hair backwards with your hand. You may notice dry skin, or red areas.

While blow drying your dog you are actually separating the hair and looking directly at the skin. A time when you would notice puncture wounds, cuts and abrasions, foxtails and other stickers and also foreign travelers like fleas,ticks or lice.

While you are grooming your puppy or mature dog, you are also teaching them. The more you teach your dog and praise your dog, the more well rounded he will become.

When we are lifting their paws and moving them around we might notice if they are sore or perhaps getting arthritis.

When we look at our pets we see our furry friends but if we look closer we may see much more that relates to the health of our dogs.

by Katherine Durr

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Dog Flea Control Management: How To Prevent, Treat, And Kill Dog Fleas

Dog flea control and management requires an integrated approach. For effective treatment both the host animal and the environment must be treated at the same time. Control of fleas on the pet generally requires the use of insecticides. Although flea combs can remove some fleas, combing should be thought of as a method for detecting fleas rather than removing them.

If an animal is to be treated for other conditions besides fleas, such as expression of anal glands, these procedures should be done before the insecticide application to minimize insecticide contact with interior mucosal membranes.


A wide range of insecticides are available for flea control. The pyrethrins and pyrethroids have the lowest mammalian toxicity. These insecticides come in many formulations including shampoo, dust and powder, mousse, aerosol and non-aerosol mist or spray, dip, spot-on, roll-on and collar. Organophosphate drugs for oral use are available, by prescription from veterinarians.


In addition, some on-animal formulations contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) that kill flea eggs on the animal. *Remember to read all insecticide labels, and to follow all precautions and dose directions.

The insecticides used for flea control vary widely in toxicity and efficacy. Considerations for selecting a formulation include the size, weight and age of the animal, as well as the species.

For example, greyhounds are a very chemical-sensitive breed and are more sensitive to insecticide products than most other dogs. Do not attach flea collars or flea-killing medallions on these dogs. Do not use chlorpyrifos, DDVP, methoxychior or malathion on greyhounds.

Cats are more sensitive to organophosphate insecticides than dogs. In addition, cats groom themselves more than dogs and are more likely to ingest an insecticide by licking the residue from their fur.

Kittens and puppies, because of their smaller size, require a lower dose than adult animals. Young animals may also require treatment with insecticides of lower toxicity than adult animals. Pregnant or nursing animals may be sensitive to certain insecticides.

Several products are available for especially sensitive pets and other situations that require lower risk chemical measures. These include the citrus peel extracts d-limonene and linalool, sorptive dusts such as silica aerogel or diatomaceous earth, the insect growth regulators fenoxycarb or methoprene, and insecticidal soaps.

Theses words may seem foreign to you, but you can always consult a veterinarian if you have questions. They will have accurate information on insecticides and their use for flea control on pet animals. The insecticide label should also contain accurate information on how a particular formulation of an insecticide should and should not be used. *Remember to read these labels before opening the container!

When using insecticides for flea control, remember that the applicator, namely your pet and you can be exposed to the insecticides several times. The label may call for the use of gloves and other protective equipment during application and suggest the pet not be handled with unprotected hands until the treatment dries. All personal protective equipment listed on the label must be worn. As a minimum aspect, chemical-resistant gloves, apron and goggles should be worn while mixing insecticides and during application to prevent insecticide contact with the skin.

The working area should be appropriate for containment of the pesticide and should be resistant to caustic materials. A stainless steel preparation table and stainless steel or ceramic tub are ideal. Also, certain parts of the pet’s body (such as the eyes) may be sensitive to the insecticides and must be shielded during application. When using flea “bombs” (aerosol cans with a self-releasing mechanism), follow all the precautions and remove the pets from the area being treated. For your information, using excessive aerosols is illegal and may cause fires and even explosions.

The other important part of an integrated flea management program is to control larval fleas in the habitat away from the animal. This can be achieved either mechanically or with insecticides. Mechanical or physical control of flea larvae involves removal and laundering of animal bedding and thorough cleaning of areas frequented by the animal.

Using a vacuum with a beater bar and immediately disposing of the waste bag effectively eliminates up to half of the larvae and eggs in carpet. You should also launder animal bedding and thoroughly clean areas the animal frequents and dispose of the vacuum waste bag after every cleaning.

Do not put insecticides in the vacuum cleaner bag. This is an illegal and dangerous use of the products and can harm you, your family and pets by creating dusts or fumes that could be inhaled.

Another mechanical control measure is carpet shampooing or steam cleaning. This rids the carpet of blood feces, an important food for the larvae, and may also remove eggs and larvae. In outdoor areas, cleaning up the places where animals like to rest reduces eggs and larvae and removes blood pellets. In yards and kennels, flea larvae can be found in cracks at wall-floor junctions and in floor crevices. These areas must be thoroughly cleaned and then maintained to prevent another infestation.

Recently several ultrasound devices, including collars, have entered the market claiming to control or repel fleas. Several scientific studies have investigated these devices and found absolutely no basis for the manufacture’s claims. Ultrasonic devices do not control flea populations. It is unnecessary for you to buy these equipments.

Chemical control of flea larvae can be achieved with insecticides. Organophosphate, carbamate, pyrethrin, pyrethroid and growth regulator (hormone mimic) insecticides as well as certain minerals are available for flea control in the environment These insecticides are formulated as coarse sprays, foggers and dusts or are micro-encapsulated.

All but the growth regulators kill flea larvae on contact. Insect growth regulators prevent flea larvae from developing to the adult stage. Growth regulators may also inhibit egg hatching. A good flea larval control program will incorporate sanitation, contact insecticides and growth regulators for good results.

Flea management requires patience, time and careful planning. Vacuuming and cleaning areas frequented by dogs and cats should be routine. The same applies to kennels. If an infestation occurs, insecticide applications on the animals or in the environment may have to be repeated according to the label. The need for retreatment and time intervals between insecticide treatments will vary with the kind of insecticide and the formulation.

Flea control will not be successful if only one approach is used. The animal and its environment must be treated simultaneously, and that treatment must be combined with regular sanitation efforts. Read all product labels carefully. Do not overexpose your pet by combining too many treatments at one time, such as a collar, a shampoo and a dust. Pesticides have a cumulative effect. Be aware of each product’s toxicity and do not endanger yourself or the animal by using excessive amounts of any one product or by combining products.

To end, please remember that flea control will only be successful when you treat both your pet and the environment simultaneously. Hope this article is useful in helping you manage flea problems.

By Moses Chia